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What you say is true. At higher temps there is a real problem with antimony and arsenic vapors. Neeless to say, my casting furnace is located ajacent to an open door that opens directly to the outside. I also have a window open to cross ventilate the shop. So far, no problems but I appreciate the heads up....
 
No problem. I like a little bit higher temp myself, as I get better fillout, though I was always worried about the vapor thing, even with a mask on.. Take care

John
 
Venturino is an old West Virginia boy. He's made a name for himself shooting old iron. This is great and though I've heard he's had some health problems he's back shooting again.

The mould prep thing is something spoken of often by casters and mould makers. Some use it to good success while others say it's a waste of time. A lot of people smoke their moulds which is done for the same purpose.

I've tried different brands of the stuff, from Midway Drop Out to other types designed for commercial use. They do work to a point. Some moulds that maybe have a driving band that's cut to 90 plus degrees instead of square they will help.

Here in the hollow we use no prep at all in the cavities or on the mould face because they tend to clog the vents. I do however like it on the spure cutter (both sides) and on the top surface of the mould proper. Here it helps with wear and tear.

As for mould release and bullets being released from the cavity, I feel this way. If the mould is cut as good as some manufactures claim, you need nothing to help. A perfectly cut mould where the cherrie is "centered" in the blocks and no angle exceeds 90 degrees will release a bullet with no help except for maybe a slight tap or shake of the mould.

It's my feeling that most moulds that won't release a Keith bullet are bored or cherried if you will off center. In other words there is more of the bullet in one half of the mould than the other. This means over 180 degrees of the bullet is in one half and so it is held.

Again this is just my 2 cents and this won't buy coffee unless you add green backs with it.
Creeker
Joshua 1:9
I'm reading between the lines here and I confess to being a tad slow however, am I correct in my assumption that you make molds? If so, do you list them on a web site? If I'm off base here feel free to correct me. However, if I'm correct, I'd love to see what you offer.
 
Hi Reece, Creeker (LAH) is chief cook and bottle washer of Dry Creek Bullet Works, casters of some of the finest Keith type bullets around. He also casts and sells other bullet styles as well. Brian Pearce has made several favorable comments concerning Dry Creek's bullets in Handloading magazine.
God Bless
Terry
Thanks, just before you posted I found the web site and took a gander. Looks like good stuff. I'm going to keep my eye open for any "creeker" posts. I might just learn a thing or two.
RJ
 
On top of making really nice bullets, he and his wife are very nice folks too.
God Bless
Terry
Aren't all the folks from West VA nice? I've known several and I'm pleased to say there was nary a jerk among them. Wish I could say that for my native Kalipornia bunch.
 
Quote
Aren't all the folks from West VA nice?
As a WVU grad. I can say yes! Though I live in VA now I was born and raised in SW PA which is almost northern WVa. Sure enjoyed watching WVU kick the living booger out of Pitt. Go 'eers!
God Bless
Terry
We are bullet casters pure and simple. The truth is I'm a very simple man and once I find something that works, I hardly change. Thus my love for Keith bullets. The first bullet I cast in 1973 was a Lyman 358429. GREAT BULLET PERIOD

I thought of making moulds but would need to have my cherries made as I'm no machinest.

Your long list of questions were impossible for me to answer at one time so I thought I'd answer a little here and a little there. As stated I'm a bullet caster not a writer. We do like to help when we can though, especially the new caster. In the spirit of helping we sell bullets to people who want to try the bullet before buying a mould.

Probably 20% of our business is repeat. These are shooter who know there is no "pat" answer when it comes to bullets. There is no such thing as the perfect bullet for everything. IMHO the Keith comes closer than any and that's why I shoot and cast them.

The methods I use work for me. They aren't the only way but they will work for anyone willing to give them an honest try.

We cast 1000's of pounds of bullets per year. About all are handcast. We certainly aren't the sharpest knife in the basket but I've handled enough lead to know equipment makers, which includes mould makers, sometimes make statements they really don't need to. Their work would stand on it's own.

Our site states "We make no claims of our bullets, our customers will do that." Most equipment makers (including makers of firearms) should probably do the same.

Again just my two and thanks Terry. If I couldn't root for WVU, it would be Pitt before the Turkeys.
Creeker
Joshua 1:9
I received the LBT mold two days ago. Right off, Veral cut it at .459 rather than .458. He thinks it will be more accurate that way but I'm not so sure. I also discovered that this is going to be a smokless bullet only. Because the front of the bullet ahead of the top grease grove is one big driving band all the way out to the very short ogive, these bullets must be seated deeply in the case making my 45-90 a rather skimpy 45-47 if I use Pyrodex or BP. I'm going to shoot these this weekend using 31.5 grins of 4755 over a Fed. 215 mag rifle primer. I've sized some at .459 and others at .458..we'll see which works better. The mold casts real crappy until it gets warm, then it's like no other I've ever used. The bullets just roll out. The sprue cuts neatly without tearing, just perfect. This mold is difficult to use though. the alignment pins are a very tight fit meaning that closing the blocks must be done slowly and with care. When the bloks are cold, they simply do not want to open, once warm all is good. Go figure. Aluminum blocks, steel sprue cutter, RCBS handles. Two cavities. I'll report back Sunday night with the results. OAL for my 45-90 using this bullet is 2.795"
 
Good luck with your LBT mould. I have considered buying one myself for a .44. For long guns, I shoot a .40-65 with BP that so far has worked almost ridiculously well. Lyman and RCBS both make suitable moulds, but only in a .408 diameter and since my barrel is .406, I didn't want to size them down that far. I finally ended up going with a Rapine mould. It's aluminum, so I have to be careful of over-heating, but beyond that it has worked great. Very, very few bullets ever stick and it's quick to get up to temp. The gentleman I spoke to was quick and willing to work with me on exactly what I wanted. At under $100 per mould, I have certainly got my money's worth and will go back to him next time I need a "specialty" mould. If you continue having trouble, it's something to bear in mind. Good shooting, BD
 
Thanks for the input. Is that Rapine mold a two cavity job? My LBT is and I'm surprized how much faster one can accumulate a good pile of bullets. One thing I want to make clear for anyone reading this thread. LBT bullets cast from my mold are not really compatable with either BP or Pyrodex. To chamber, the bullets have to be seated very deeply in the case leaving no room for a normal powder charge. Now my bullets are 500 grns. I simply can't seat them with any more OAL than 2.795" leaving me room for about 47 grns of Pyrodex RS Select (by weight)if I compress it no more than 3/8". If I switched over to a 350 or maybe a 400 grn bullet I could add a lot more powder. So what I'm saying is this really, the LBT mold is beautiful (it's aluminum too) and works better than any mold I've ever used provided one goes slowly and deliberately, but it really isn't designed for BP loading. It's a shame too because the grease grove design seems perfect for BP. The grooves are deep and rounded meaning they carry a lot of grease and they should shed it all in the barrel. But the front driving band is more than 5/8" long and the ogive is very short so unless you have a long throated barrel, these bullets must be seated too far into the case for effective BP loading.
 
OK, shot a whole bunch of rounds today. Using Accurate Arms 5744 (31.5 gr.) and the LBT FN bullet sized to .458 and keeping the OAL at 2.895 I was able to shoot a 1" group at 100 yards using the Creedmore iron sights and a globe front sight. This bullet is a keeper for smokeless but a dog for BP. You just can't get any powder in the case because you have to seat the bullet so deeply. I suspect that if I had a 350 grn bullet I could use BP easily. Shoot, those curved lube grooves just sling the lube onto the barrel. I'm going to send my mold back and have Veral send me the .458 mold I asked for. I can then use a .459 size die to lube the bullets and shoot hem as cast. If my mold is typical then I can say this with confidence: LBT molds make nice bullets but they are tricky to use. They don't close well until warm nor do they open easily until warm. However, once warmed up they are a snap. I like mine and look foreward to using it a whole lot more.

Edited on 12/7/2003 12:34:05 PM.
 
OK, here's a flash update on the LBT mold. Last night, after deciding that I was going to keep the mold, I lubed it as per Veral's instructions using LBT's lube. WOW! No more sticky opening and closing. Bullets just fall out when the mold is opened. They fill out well, cast quickly and have wonderful bases. Now if only Veral would make one with a shorter front driving band and a long nose that rides the bore... Then this would be an excellent BP or Pyrodex bullet in the 47-70 or 45-90 class. Even with it's present dimentions, this bullet would work exceedingly well with BP in the 45-110 or 45-120 case. With the large meplat up front, this bullet has got to be devistating on game. Recovered bullets show complete upset to twice bullet diameter when they strike sand. I'd love to here from those who have used LBT bullets in pistols or other rifles.
 
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