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Handloads.Com ForumCast BulletsLube Experiments
Hey Gang,
Since there has been an inquiry into the realm of homemade bullet lubes and all, I figured I'd start experimenting with several mixes that I've read about over the years.
One of my own ideas, which I feel has a lot of promise through current sizers, is using canning or beeswax, mixed with automotive molyebdenum sulfide grease. Some synthetic greases are also a possibility.
The 50/50 mix might be too greasy, and I thought that a 60/40 blend would be a good "middle ground" to the current "hard lubes".
Substituing "Slick 50", or "Duralube", instead of "Break Free", might also be a consideration.
Crisco and lard have been experimented with in the past, but I feel that the newer synthetics have more to offer here. The consistency of a "softer than wax itself", is what I'm shooting for, if you get my point.........

I'll keep you all posted....

Bob

Edited on 11/6/2003 8:25:32 AM.
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Bob, this is interesting. I'll be watching for your progress.
 
Good idea! I've been using that recipe for about 7 years now and the 50/50 mix (by weight) is just right. It's all I use for my cast bullet loads. Don't use canning wax (paraffin), beeswax has much better flow properties and will work much better.
Glen
Glen,
Which recipe are you using, the automotive moly grease with the beeswax?
I might opt out of that one. I don't really need or want moly in any of my barrels. Not that it isn't beneficial in some shooting applications, but I'm just not on the "moly bandwagon" so to speak. The grease that I'm mainly thinking of using, is the one that is a synthetic, and red in color. Advance Auto stores sell it, and I think I've seen it under the Coastal name in Auto Zone. Some are blue, or red. One reason for using the canning wax was the limited availability of beeswax, and mainly because I wanted to "stiffen" the mixture slightly. If canning wax flowed less, or was stiffer, theoretically a 60/40 mix would work. I've already used the 50/50 of canning wax, and vaseline, adding a tblsp. of Break Free. It worked, but was too soft and sloppy, and left a (naturally) greasey residue.
I figured a 60/40, wax to grease, would harden it enough to land it somewhere between the consistancy of old 50/50 alox/beeswax, and the harder lubes that require heaters. A little added Duralube, or Slick 50, would spice it up nicely. I've been playin' with this stuff for years. I'll start screwin' with it every once in awhile, then when I get bored with the mess and have to get back to the pot, I'll go back to my old stick lubes.
It works, but it has to be "as good", or hopefully better than the commercial offerings, or it isn't really worth it. My main objective is to make it better, "and cheaper". We'll see what happens!

Thanks
Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Yes, I'm using the automotive moly grease. It's not so much that I'm "on the moly bandwagon" but moly does help prevent adhesion of leading deposits, and I do get excellent accuracy with this lube.

I hear you about the availability and cost of paraffin, which is why I experimented with it alot back about 10 years ago. The main problem with paraffin is that it's crytalline and that it has a sharp melting point. This means that below the melting point it doesn't flow worth beans, and then all of a sudden at its melting point it liquifies and goes everywhere. There is no viscous flow region, like beeswax has (you can induce this behavior by adding a plasticizer, like vaseline). I use beeswax because it works extremely well and it doesn't require any monkeying around to make it work.

Please keep us posted on how your experiments turn out!
Glen
Glen,
Where are you getting your beeswax from? Or, better yet, where's a good commercial supplier, mail order or otherwise?

Thanks
Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

I have a friendly beekeeper that supplies me with beeswax. I have also bought beeswax from genwax online (hint -- they commonly have end of year clearance sales).
http://candles.genwax.com/candle_nav/___0___candle_wax.htm
Glen
Glen,
Thanks a bunch. I know postage & handling adds to the "pocket pain", but It'd be worth it if all works out.
Like I mentioned, Moly is an option, but I haven't played with it much to speak of. Most of my buddies that are into bench guns use it, but it's a pro & con world there too.
I thought about a dusting powder following lube & sizing of maybe industrial graphite, or motor mica, just to prevent sticking while being stored.

TKS...
Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Handgunr, you mentioned "motor mica" where can you get it?
cukrus
 
Midway sells fine powdered Mica. I assume it's the same thing as Motor Mica. I had great results with that stuff.



Mica
cukrus,
Welcome............!
HogRider's right on the money.....Midway sells the stuff, and if I'm not mistaken, in a pretty large can too. I remember seeing it in one of their flyers awhile ago.
I used to get it a few years ago from Brownell's, I believe. Unless it's a specialty item, I don't buy from them any longer.....Midway filled that niche.
Most of the stuff I get through the mail/online is through Natchez Shooters, or Midsouth. Between the two, their prices are hard to beat.

http://www.midwayusa.com/
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/
http://www.natchezss.com/

Take care,
Bob

Edited on 11/10/2003 2:02:05 PM.
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Hi Folks. New guy here. Have you tried Felix Lube? We get 2500 fps range with this with good accuracy and no leading when everything is fit proper.

Here's the formula more or less.

Felix Lube
Shooters Cast Bullet Alumnus
I´ve been experimenting with lube as well, about half being beeswax,some molypaste and candlewax for stiffness. Hard to tell the ratios ,it´s an ongoing project and right now it´s fine for 45-70 and 44 Mag,haven´t tried on other calibers that carefully yet.

Still a little messy to handle in summer but it lubes fine. There MAY be some ATF too,I´m not sure anymore... should ALWAYS write down things right away!
"Wild Horses" @ The Rolling Stones
I cranked up a batch of some super secret no-leading special lube tonight, and if you believe that I can go ahead and tell you that I made it a little soft to hand lube the bullets for testing purposes LOL. The mix is kind of like a Felix lube but different on synthetics....

Hopefully it will work, I am up against a wall with one gun and I flat need a better lube. Tomorrow night I am going to give it a relatively easy test that no lube is passing so far and I have the old stuff as a control load.

This is my first foray into lube making and witchcraft and sorcery LOL, if it doesn't work I am going to buy some of Paco Kelly's 'Apache Blue'. Anyone used it? Paco claims it is better than bottled beer and sliced bread........
 
Smith,
What I've messed with so far is canning wax, tech 2000 synthetic grease (red), and break free. I'm trying to do it on the cheap, and use items that are readily available. All the trials and stuff really aren't worth it, if the stuff is too hard to get, or too pricey. Most that are thinking of doing their own lubes are put off by the amount of effort and the pain of getting the stuff if it's too difficult. I'm trying to follow the "KISS" method, and "on the cheap" as well. I did try and locate a source of liquid teflon, but it was expensive, and "out of the norm", so to speak. Same thing regarding beeswax. You can offset the flow benefits of beeswax, compared to canning wax, by adding a lubricant like break free. 2 tblsp's worth does the trick on a 2lb. mix.
I can't poo-poo the Felix lube, and I'm not trying to, cause it sounds like it's working, but it sounds like a lot of work for whats needed....maybe not. One thing that was said regarding the Felix lube on "castpics" was something like, "although other lube mixes appear to work" ???? I'm sure that the guy that concocted the mix was probably very versed on his lube chemistry, but it's really not rocket science. I've used the old mix of both Crisco & wax, and Vaseline & wax, and they work, but are sloppy and have lower limits when it comes to velocity. My only problem at this point, is measured amounts, and that's really what I am experimenting with right now. I did the 50/50 (half wax-half synth. grease)mix so far, and it's about on par with Tamarack, maybe a little sloppier. What I'm striving for, is a lube that has slightly softer characteristics than the heated lubes. A lube that you can use with a heater for ease, but can still use if you don't have one...get me? Something that'll stay "in grade" up to higher temperatures. Lyman's Orange Majic actually is made with and orange oil, much like Pledge's new furniture polish.
If I could find a cherry oil, it might match with the red grease I'm screwing with........naw, just kidding. It is a pretty color though....light red.
I'm not condemning the other mixes out there, I just think there's something much simpler, and that's what I'm striving for.

Take care,
Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

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