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Handloads.Com ForumCast BulletsLube Experiments
Bob, Mobil 1 grease is a big part of my lube, along with some alox, beeswax, castor oil, soap, lanolin (from bag balm LOL), vaseline and some Grey Poupon mustard. OK, so I didn't really put mustard in it but it is a concotion of stuff I had. Color is about that of a blood bay horse. If anything it is a little too soft and needs some parifin.

I have enough to make at least 6 sticks of lube and less than $8 in it......
 
SMITH,
Yes, sounds like soup.......LOL. I read where the lanolin and other stuff added to the mix, had properties useful to retard the leading. Mobil 1 is actually very good stuff. My brother, who was high tech into lubes and stuff, said that the best stuff on the market was made by "Amsoil". I think that I'm going to try a little "slick 50", and maybe some industrial powdered graphite. I use graphite in sizing, where motor mica had been prescribed. Believe it or not, it is BY FAR, better. Motor mica came with my Lyman case brush box, the one where you dump this little motor mica container out into the box to powder the neck before sizing. Well, I had a situation where the neck got sticky anyway, so having graphite on hand, I placed a little in the tray. First case I dipped in it slid through the expander like it wasn't even there. Night & day difference......I assuming it'd do the same in a lube mix.....but, who knows....wouldn't hurt.
Moly probably would be similar.
I'll be mixing up a new batch of lube sometime this coming week & we'll see. I'll keep you posted here.

Take care,
Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Found some pix,yes there´s ATF too in my mix.



"Wild Horses" @ The Rolling Stones
My lube so far is a pretty dramatic success, I shot some bullets with it last night in the gun I have been fighting with. It works better than Lee Alox, Lee Liquid Alox, Lyman NRA formula, Thompson Blue, an unidentified blue and a red commercial hard lubes. Leading in this gun was bad, 15 rounds and it was leaded the length of the bore with probably 30% coverage. UGLY!!! The lead comes out easily but still is a problem. With my lube 18 shots kept leading to the first inch and it came out with ONE pass of a brush. I do not know if the leading would have been contained and stopped by the lube with more shooting or if it would have kept going down the bore but at least I can shoot it a while without stopping to clean now. Lube "mess" on the gun was low and what was there was very soft and wiped right off.

The bullets I used it on were not quite what I am wanting for the gun yet, I need to work on the mold a little more to get the bullets right. Once the bullets are just right I think I may have won a big battle with this gun. Maybe I can get it to shoot long enough in one session to do some load workups on it and find out how it really shoots...
 
I can't poo-poo the Felix lube, and I'm not trying to, cause it sounds like it's working, but it sounds like a lot of work for whats needed....maybe not. One thing that was said regarding the Felix lube on "castpics" was something like, "although other lube mixes appear to work" ???? I'm sure that the guy that concocted the mix was probably very versed on his lube chemistry, but it's really not rocket science.

It's not all that difficult to make. I can do several years worth of shooting on an hours mixing session.
Not rocket science, but good enough to win Felix more than a few national cast bullet titles over the years in competition.
Shooters Cast Bullet Alumnus
waksupi,
Like I said..........I'm not poo-pooing the guy or his brand of mix....but I'm sure his skill in shooting had a lot more to do with his wins, than did the lube. I didn't say anything "off color" about his lube mix. What I did say was that there has to be a simpler way of doing it, and cheaper to boot. I'm not guessing on what's needed, just on the amounts and the cooking time involved. Synthetics are far better lube agents than anything available on the market. They attract to heat, not retract like fossil based lubricants. Mixed with the proper hardeners to firm a mix to lube consistency, I doubt there'd be anything chemically that could best it. Maybe equal it in some ways. I've built race engines that turned 13k for sportbikes and dwarf cars for several years. Since the last 15 yrs., with the advent of more commercial synthetics, it has totally changed friction in engines. If it can do that in a high rev engine, a handgun, or rifle shouldn't be too big a challenge. I know that you stopped in from castpics, and welcome....but don't think that I am throwing crap at Mr. Felix, or his lube. Like I said, I think his major talent lies within his trigger finger, more so than his experiments with lubes. Hell, you could probably smear cowsh*t on a bullet and it'd shoot half decent.....well maybe not, but you could tell by the smell when it went off. No offense to any..........

Bob

PS-You can use the quote button at the top. Just drag & copy to the box.
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Smitty,
Congrats on your good luck with your mix. If you're getting less leading than the lubes you listed, then you're heading in the right direction. In comparison, is it sloppier than the other stuff you were using? I can always tell when I have to cut back on the grease, cause' it starts to leave a spooge ring on the muzzle. That's what the old vaseline & wax mixes used to do. I don't remember, but are you using beeswax, or something else?
I'm gonna keep working with canning wax to get it to work with my mix. Glen had mentioned awhile ago where it's flow properties are more desireable than store bought canning waxes. He also said that canning wax hits a point of heat and then melts quickly, whereas beeswax doesn't. Canning wax is just more of a challenge, but cheaper.

Take care,
Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Bob, no big spooie ring at all, but I only shot 18 rounds with it. I do have some beeswax in it, maybe 30% by volume or so. I have about 500 38-140grain SWC that I machine lubed* with it to test this coming Friday night, that should get me some info on the real messyness "index". It will not tell my much about the lube performance, the gun I will shoot them in just does not lead unless you work at it with stupid loads.

I can understand the challenge of doing it cheap, and working with materials others don't think will work. That is usually my M. O. as well, but my reason for undertaking this is a gun that will not make a full box of shells without a barrel full of leading. I am doing it out of desperation really, I like the gun a lot but unless I can get it to shoot reasonably I will get rid of it.

*-I added a half of a tea light candle to the mix to harden it a touch when I melted it to pour in the lubrisizer. It is just a little bit firm for my sizer when used in my 62* or so basement temperatures.
 
Smitty,
Let me know....sounds cool. In a way, it's almost good to have a gun that leads easily when it comes to testing lubes. Then when you get it to it's very least amount of leading, or where it doesn't lead at all, you can attribute it to the lube only, all else being equal. By the way, I'm building a lube mould to pour your melted lube into so that you can drop it into your sizer when you need to. I just took a piece of threaded pipe of the same diameter, used the threaded cap that goes on one end, and drilled it out. I put a steel bolt in the cap and welded it centered. I still have to weld a handle on it yet, but the top stays open with the stem sticking up through the center. When you're ready to go, you just screw on the bottom cap with the stem, pour your mix inside, let it cool, then unscrew the cap from the bottom and pull it out. You push the stick out from one side to the other, either way. Instant lube stick with a hole in the center....just like the factory stuff. I gotta finish it up because I'm gonna be using it when I get playing again.....let you know.

Take care,
Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

SMITH
If the problem is leading in the one gun then the problem may be bullet fit not lube. Have you slugged that barrel or tried a larger bullet or harder bullet (alloy or heat treated)? If a revolver is the gun in question, is the cylinder throat swaging the bullet smaller than the barrel? Just wondering.
cukrus

Edited on 12/16/2003 9:43:02 AM.

Edited on 12/16/2003 9:48:02 AM.
 
Just the opposite actually, HUGE throats and a tight bore is what I am up against. Essentially I have no support for the bullet until it hits the forcing cone, and between the case and there the base of the bullet is getting blown off by the powder gasses and flames. I have not recovered bullets from this gun but I would be willing to bet the bases are terribly chewed up. Hardness is not helping much if at all, and I am honing the mold out a little at a time getting bigger bullets. I have some commercial bullets that are throat sized that a guy over at the S&W forums was kind enough to send me to try, my guess is accuracy will be very nice and leading will cease. I have also honed my mold out another couple thou since I last shot with my mold.

Appreciate your concern and help, this gun is a PITA for sure.
 
Smitty,
Can it be remedied, or is it too old ? I'd think that S&W (under it's new leadership) could fix that for you. New cylinder maybe ??? Being that the cylinder is so large compared to the bore, and if you used oversized bullets, wouldn't it lead heavy at the forcing cone, or no ?


Bob
Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

Bob, we are going to find out what happens with the big bullets. The gun is from 79-80, and Smith claims they have no cylinders for it, nor any reason to make a new run. I would have to supply a cylinder, probably a 44 magnum cylinder, and pay their custom shop to ream it and fit it and all of that and still end up with a finish that doesn't match. Several hundred dollars would be a very conservative estimate, it would be cheaper to put a 44 Special cylinder and barrel on it and call it a 24 with 25 tendencies.......

The gun is not worth "fixing" in the sense of fixing it right with a new cylinder. It will work 100% fine with jacketed bullets but I don't want to shoot them. If I can't get lead to shoot I will just sell it. No biggie.
 
Smitty,
Maybe, just maybe, try:

http://www.gunpartscorp.com

They have parts from just about every gun made. Some I've never heard of. I'm sure they'd mike a cylinder or two for you if they have any available.

Good luck,
Bob

Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup?

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